We did it. I'm sure that single three-word declaration has you now going to the final paragraph of my previous post to figure out exactly what we did. No? I suppose I can remind you. We were at anchor in beautiful Oxford, Maryland waiting for the wind to subside and give us a nice run across Chesapeake Bay to Solomons, MD. It did, and we did, and enjoyed a lovely autumnal cruise. We arrived at Southern Maryland Sailing Association's T-head berth right around 3:30pm on Monday, November 11 where we were greeted by club members Robin and Mark (Mark is also the club's dockmaster). We made fast to the dock, while we were receiving a very warm welcome, but shortly our hosts took their leave. We connected to the available 20-amp shore power connection, which is a bare minimum for us to keep warm as the weather is dipping into the 40s at night. After the boat was secured and powered, we put feet to the ground and made our way to the Amazon Locker at Safe Harbor Zahnizer's Marina where we had packages waiting, and then on to our dear friend, Cristin's house to enjoy conversation and dinner. Cristin had to leave for Germany on Tuesday, so this was our chance to catch up before we need to continue on our own journey south. The next few days, we hunkered down in the boat while a biting northwest wind tousled the seas outside our very safe harbor. We did receive a few groceries and other necessities via a big-box delivery service we are trying for the next year at significant discount, and that we are, so far, enjoying. Living aboard often means that local retailers are out of reach since we can't carry our car with us aboard Stinkpot, so reasonably-priced delivery services are a boon. On Friday, November 15, I set up my sound equipment in the club and paid our “slip fees” with a performance for the members, and had a great time. Saturday, the wind continued to blow while we re-stowed my music gear and prepared Stinkpot to get, once again, underway. Sunday morning we dropped lines, quickly pumped out our black water at the nearby town pump out dock, and quietly made our way into the rising sun onto a calm Chesapeake Bay. We intentionally ran a long day to maximize battery charge—with the short daylight hours of this time of year, we pay a price at the battery bank for knocking off early. Ultimately, we berthed for the evening at new friends, Mike's and Tammy's home dock up Stutts Creek in Hudgins, VA, and enjoyed a bit of friendly hospitality. All too short though, as we made our way back toward the Hole in the Wall just after dawn, cruising all the way to, and through, Deep Creek Lock on the Dismal Swamp Canal, tying up Monday evening on Elizabeth's Dock (sadly too late to snag one of the two coveted power pedestals). We did brave the traffic and closed-due-to-construction pedestrian way across the nearby drawbridge so that we could enjoy dinner at the behest of the culinary delight that is El Puente Mexican Grill and grab a couple missing larder items at the attached Food Lion. Tuesday morning, we, again, cast off at 11am, taking the head of the short line of two boats locking through Deep Creek as we traveled the length of the canal, locking back down alone at South Mills with the 3:30pm lockage, and traveling through twilight and into the seasonally-early darkness to the Mid-Atlantic Christian University's free dock in Elizabeth City, NC which we had uncharacteristically and completely to ourselves. We walked into town and enjoyed some delectable cheeseburgers at a brand-new joint that wasn't there our last time through in May, The Bistro Burger Bar. This will become a go-to for us. Sated, we returned to Stinkpot to wait for another grocery delivery in anticipation of our Thanksgiving plans, which we successfully intercepted despite the delivery driver's palpable confusion, having been led to a parking lot at a Christian University instead of a residence. All this time, we had been exchanging messages with friends, Sean and Louise, aboard MY Vector with intentions of meeting up somewhere around Albemarle Sound. They had been cruising the Albemarle Loop while we gently made our way south. We reported our location, studied the wind forecast (even moderate winds can render Albemarle Sound an unpalatable tempest), and agreed that we would meet in the afternoon of Wednesday, November 20 at the free dock (with power and water) in Hertford, NC. Stinkpot arrived first around 1pm. Before docking, we dutifully sounded out the T-head dock at the end to make sure Vector would have sufficient depth there (just barely) before backing into one of the slips just inside the T. We made fast, connected to power and water, and awaited Vector's magnificent arrival a couple hours later. Having all researched the all-too distant and scarce restaurant options in the area, we agreed that an ad hoc cottage pie (shepherd's pie, made with ground beef instead of lamb) aboard Stinkpot would be an excellent way to catch up over dinner, which is what happened. As I'm typing this now, we've been here fully two more days, waiting for a weather (read: wind) window to cross the sound, having dined en masse at the perfectly-serviceable-but-not-spectacular 252 Grill, (a mile's walk away) on Thursday evening, and at "Chez Vector" on the T-head last night (Friday night). Tonight's dinner plans have will have us aboard Stinkpot once again for some homemade pizza.
The wind is supposed to start laying down this afternoon, so we will be getting underway in the morning and forming a very short conga line toward Washington, NC where we intend to enjoy yet another Thanksgiving together with the crew of Vector--A tradition of sorts that began mere weeks after we all first met while we were cruising the Great Loop, and that repeated last year in Sanford, FL. Holiday traditions, living and traveling nomadically on boats as we all do, are far and few between, so making this one work when local coincidence allows seems very satisfying somehow. So, with that, and the great anticipation of our three-day(ish) cruise to Washington, NC and the repast to follow, Happy Thanksgiving to all!
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After somewhere around six weeks of living in our boat on dry land, with almost no fanfare except engines roaring to life, Stinkpot was relaunched on Election Day—November 5—and gracefully made her way into slip 36 at McDaniel Yacht Basin. For the last month or so, we have been scrubbing, painting, scraping, sanding, waxing, varnishing, repairing, maintaining, and attempting to make Stinkpot look like she hasn’t in a long time. We had intended to do that over the winter in the south, but with my illness speeding our south’ard roll by a month or more, we decided to do it sooner than later, and she looks great. Somewhere in the middle of all the boat work, we were also distracted by the Annapolis Boat Shows as well as boat shopping. I suppose I should fess up that we are looking for the next Stinkpot, and have quietly been doing so for months. I am really hoping to find a boat large enough to have my digital piano aboard. If there is anything I miss from land life, it’s sitting down at the piano. It’s something we have been considering for a couple years, and this period of land time seemed like an opportunity, so we seized upon it. A barrage of emails later had us reunited with our broker, Ryan Miller, and the search has been on. We actually thought we found a boat. A vessel near Baltimore seemed perfect—a Carver 42, was listed by Jay Porterfield with Knot 10 Brokerage. It appeared very clean, but the mechanical survey and oil samples failed very badly, so we had to pull the plug. I expected the listing to be removed after the broker relayed the findings to his client that the boat needed more work than it was worth, but instead they re-marketed the boat with no disclosure of those findings in the listing, following an all-too-minor price adjustment. This all led me to conclude I will never again look at another Knot 10 listing. Caveat emptor…. Being so late in the season to be so far north, we splashed Stinkpot and recommitted to life aboard her for the foreseeable future. Last chores were completed, including washing yard grime off from the rub-rail up, an oil change, and reprovisioning. Friday, I relocated our car to our friend, Kim’s house for safekeeping while we cruise, returning to the marina via MARC train to nearby Perryville Station and a quick ride in my pal, John’s car to connect the final destinations. Early Saturday morning, November 9, with much thanks to Rose, Phil, Tina and crew at McDaniel Yacht Basin—a place we now consider home in so many ways—we dropped lines and began moving south. It was a sunny, chilly morning, so we started at the lower helm as we waited for the outside temps to rise a bit with the sun as we made our way down the eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay from the North East River, finishing our cruise for the day in Rock Hall on the free bulkhead/dock there. We consumed a late lunch at Harbor Shack. The place was packed, the view was fantastic, and the food was really not good. I had the chicken fajitas while Stacey ordered a seafood-stuffed quesadilla. I’m not sure how you make fajitas taste so “meh,” but they managed to. Stacey’s comment about the quesadilla was something about how, eating out and “leaving it to the professionals,” is supposed to protect one from consuming objectively bad flavor combinations, but “not this time.” Following our insipid repast, we took to the hoof for a spin through the tiny berg with our eye on the nearby grocery for bananas. Yes, we know there are many who maintain that bananas are bad luck on a boat, but we have been assured by experts in nautical superstition that the bad luck is specific to fishing, not boating. Since we never “wet a line” we see fit to risk it. After a successful mission, we returned to the boat to find an official-looking gent eyeballing her suspiciously. I cleared my throat and asked if I could help him. He asked when we arrived and how long we were staying, and I told him we’d arrived in the early afternoon and would be leaving out in the morning. He seemed satisfied that we were not intending to overstay our welcome and left us alone after complaining bitterly about the boat, aptly named “Problem Child” tied up just ahead of us that had apparently been there too much, too often to the annoyance of local government officials, of which he was one. We had a quiet evening aboard, turning in early and getting underway just before dawn. The wind was coming up, so we angled toward the Chester River, down through Kent Narrows, and down the eastern shore and into the western inlet of Knapps Narrows—our immediate objective was to refuel at Fairbank Tackle, where we took on 181.5 gallons of off-road diesel at $2.809 per gallon. From there, we continued through the ditch heading east, hoping that the building wind and waves would permit us to cross to Solomons, but it wasn’t to be. We retreated up the Choptank River, into the Tred Avon and anchored for the night in Oxford, MD, just across the channel from DiMillo’s on the Chesapeake East—owned by the DiMillos in Portland, Maine. We found ourselves wishing they had a restaurant here as well to offer us a taste of home. Oxford seemed very quaint from the water. With the wind and weather, we deigned to keep the dinghy aboard and intend to return another time for a proper exploration of the town. For now, it has been a scenic place to lay our heads for the night, and nothing more.
As I type this in the late morning, we are still waiting for the winds to lay down as forecast to give us a reasonably (hopefully?) smooth crossing to Solomons. We can see the trailing edge of the front to the west, and when it's overhead shortly, we will be weighing anchor and getting underway. |